What to wear and what not to wear to London Fashion Week
For those watching fashion month from the sidelines (read: through your screen), it can seem like one big party but for the women and men working in the industry, it’s a busy four weeks of shows, re-sees, deadlines and work, work, work.
It’s a reality that doesn’t leave much time for pulling together a wardrobe that must be equal parts comfortable, versatile, travel-friendly and stylish. Though of course with street style photographers on every corner, eagerly awaiting the arrival of fashion’s best dressed specimens, and designers to pay tribute to, the need for a well-thought out wardrobe is essential.
And while the peacocks flit from cab to front row, switching wardrobes between presentations in their chauffeured vehicles, not all of those on the fashion month circuit are so lucky. Throw in London’s famously inclement weather and a few cobbled streets, and you’re dealing with wardrobe difficulties that give even the most discerning fashion acolytes anxiety.
Vogue spoke to some of the busiest women on the circuit about what they’ve learnt regarding wardrobe choices ahead of London Fashion Week, all of who insist comfort is key and no matter what, avoid the Von Dutch.
These lessons are a guide to traversing London Fashion Week with success but also apply to a myriad of wardrobe problems, take note.
The general consensus around pulling together a well-rounded fashion month wardrobe is organisation. When that fails though, look to old faithfuls in silhouettes that never let you down and tailoring.
“My wardrobe over the shows does take some planning and being away so much means I do need to be organised and mindful of the best things to pack and run between meetings in,” says fashion & buying director for Matches Fashion Natalie Kingham. “I veer towards my go-to dressing options— tailoring and great shirting. I do also try to support local designers in the cities and in London there are so many great ones to choose from.”
For Henrietta Rix, one half of London-based Rixo, the lead-up to fashion month is such a whirlwind there’s no time to prepare where wardrobe is concerned but lots to celebrate post-show. It’s for this reason Rix opts for reliable silhouettes and fabrics that easily transition from day to night.
“When our schedules are so busy during fashion week and we don’t have time to think about what to wear, one of our silk dresses are what I reach for first,” says Rix ahead of the brand’s see-now-buy-now show.
On the flipside, Orlagh McCloskey, the other half of Rixo, says her mainstay this season will be knitwear, in all of its comfortable and reliable glory.
Accessories are a key component to a successful London fashion week wardrobe and yes, that means reliable footwear and maybe an umbrella.
“A great brogue for the day or evening sandal for events are essentials— Prada is usually my go-to for footwear. I also love to pair back with an interesting handbag – favourites for this season are the new shapes from Bottega Veneta,” Kingham advises, name-checking everyone’s current ‘new Bottega’ obsession.
For photographer India Hartford Davis, black has become a reliable uniform during fashion month but accessories are always a practical way to have fun. “I’d strongly avoid any sort of high heel in London as the stairs and amount of walking you do just isn’t worth the pain!” Hartford Davis notes her go-to designers where accessories are concerned are Rejina Pyo and Yuul Yie.
London is famous for its emerging design scene, arguably one of the only cities where show attendees push the limits sartorially and designers are known for their theatrical collections and shows. All four women agree it’s one of the more exciting cities to spot new talent (Rixo leading the pack in that respect), and a perfect way to avoid looking like everyone else.
“The more comfortable you are, the more confident you’ll feel!” says Rix, recalling a failed fashion experiment with Von Dutch in her youth that she’ll “never live down!” – a sincere reason to opt out of trendy one-season hits and look to designers doing something worth investing in.
“It is always a joy to see the collections of designers we have worked with for many years such as JW Anderson, Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha and Roksanda, alongside talent who are really at the forefront of fashion such as Halpern, Matty Bovan and Molly Goddard, ” Kingham says, adding she also has her eye on Saville Row tailor Emma Wills.
Likewise, Hartford Davis notes fur is finally becoming a no-go zone in London (“It seems every year in London the protests about animal cruelty get bigger and bigger! Which I fully support”).
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