Tiny bags and big shades: top trends at Paris fashion week
As Paris women’s fashion week heads into the
final straight, we look at what we have learned so far from the catwalk
collections:
It’s all about purity, stupid
Spring-summer collections are supposed to be about throwing open the
windows to a world of colour and floral fancy, but Paris shows have been
notably more sober and austere than usual — almost puritanical in fact when
it comes to prints.
Photos: Saint Laurent SS19, Catwalkpictures.com
Hedi Slimane went on a voyage to the heart of black in his long-anticipated
debut at Celine, as did his successor at Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello.
Blink at the Margiela, Guy Laroche, Olivier Theyskens or Hyun Mi Nielsen
shows and you might have thought yourself at a funeral there was so much
black, while Rick Owens summoned up the Salem witch-hunts, smoking pyre and
all.
Photos: Dries Van Noten SS19, Catwalkpictures.com
Two tones, black and white, dominated the catwalks.
Even Balmain was uncharacteristically restrained, which is no bad thing.
Dior — where flowers are never far away — was utterly lovely but also
determinedly unflashy.
It was left to the king of prints Dries van Noten, as well as Jour/Ne, Paco
Rabanne and India’s jester genius Manish Arora to bring some fizz to the
party, with the latter outdoing himself with a technicolour collection that
burned itself into memory as well as the retina.
Teeny tiny bags
Bags are getting smaller, much smaller. We appear in fact to be entering
the era of the micro-bag with young guns Ottolinger and Jacquemus introducing
handbags you can hold with one finger.
Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s new C bag at Chloe might not be quite so teeny tiny
but the biggest thing about it is the golden C she has stamped on it, while
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s new Dior bag is more of a shoulder purse.
Marine Serre’s spherical bags were cartoon bombs while Arora took the
biscuit — or in this case the three-tiered cake — with his wedding cake as
well as leopard head bags which came with laser eyes.
But for pure practical ingenuity, Issey Miyake’s new bag hat is hard to
beat. Made with shiny shot fabric, it can be folded into a hat and worn in an
almost infinite number of ways.
Photos: Balenciaga SS19, Catwalkpictures.com
Gigantic shades
Summer is as all about sunglasses. And if Paris is any barometer in 2019
they will be as big as picture windows.
Dior was first to burst the frame with big boxy skin-tone shades, followed
by Gucci’s jet black giants inspired by sleeping masks with Loewe’s equally
massive ones a little more modular.
Rick Owens and Paris newcomers Marques’Almeida continued the gigantism with
almost identical fighter pilot visor shades.
Like its collection, Guy Laroche’s were two-tone while Saint Laurent and
newbies Each x Other went all hippy dippy with heart and diamond-shaped
frames.
For those who think sunglasses an unnecessary extravagance, Slimane’s Paris
by night-themed debut at Celine hammered home the style rule that one should
never go out after dark without your shades.
Photos left to right: Gucci SS19, Balenciaga SS19, Catwalkpictures.com
By gusset, it’s Y-fronts!
There has been much gnashing of teeth this week about the
relevance/appropriateness of Saint Laurent’s leather hot pants in the age of
#MeToo.
However little brouhaha resulted from Gucci sending out some of the boys in
its co-ed show in big baggy Y-fronts with socks and Oxford shoes or in a
selection of leather, red-zipped vinyl and crystal codpieces.
One diamond-encrusted scallop shell worn over a pair of powder blue slacks
drew particularly admiring glances.
Photos left to right: Chloe SS19, Balmain SS19, Catwalkpictures.com
Never one to be outdone, the American avant-gardist Owens brought out the
heavy artillery, with codpiece bags big enough to smuggle an electric guitar.
While Saint Laurent’s Vaccarello may be out of synch with the mood of the
times, Owens tellingly put his codpieces on women in an impressive show that
also included kick-ass women in headscarves and a black Lady Liberty holding
the flame of freedom that set fire to his “Tower of Babel”.
That it took place on the day of the Senate hearings into Donald Trump’s US
Supreme Court pick Brett Kavanaugh gave it a further frisson.
Safe to say that Melania Trump will not be wearing Owens anytime soon,
unless it’s on her way to the divorce courts.(AFP)
Main photo: Saint Laurent SS19, Catwalkpictures.com