On the London catwalks, artistry comes first

Art, conceptual fashion and creative form have been seen in abundance on
the London Fashion Week catwalks this season. While so many British
designers are struggling to build their fledgling labels into commercially
viable brands, they haven’t gone all New York, where the catwalks are
primarily filled with contemporary fashion and leisurewear, but with little
vamp and creativity.

Of course the designers on the LFW catwalks will do their utmost to sell to
buyers and stores, but what is shown on the catwalk is not necessarily what
ends up on the rails in boutiques. The runway is an opportunity for
designers to show they are artists in their own right, and where else but
London to discover conceptual fashion?

At Erdem, there was a “tussle at play between the voluminous grandeur” of
muse Princess Orietta Doria Pamphilj, “and the undone glamour that seduced
her on the streets of London,” said the shownotes. This culminated in a
gown with layer upon layer of floral fabric, beset by an oversized bow
that draped from neck to waist.

Models in billowing gowns of taffeta

At Roksanda Illincic, who had models walking on a sand-covered catwalk at
the Old Selfridges Hotel, volume and pastels took centre stage. One notable
catwalk look was a billowing yellow gown in taffeta. Elongated sleeves kept
the model’s arms invisible. They were so long, in fact, that they flapped
beyond her knees. A giant belt cinched a waist that would otherwise be
swathed in fabric. A feathered neckline accentuated the look.

At Preen, the designer duo behind the label, Justin Thornton and Thea
Bregazzi, said the collection was “inspired by the culture of dance and
music and the impact it has had on us.” This meant going back in time to
the eighties, with one look, a red floral gown, crisscrossed in bright trim
(silk perhaps?) that created diamond patterns. Graphically matched black
diamond tights and clogs accessorized the gown.

Mary Katrantzou could be a guest designer at Paris couture

At Mary Katrantzou, the designer turned to the elements for inspiration.
The opening looks, especially, were mesmerizing and reminded of the Paris
couture shows in January, such was the work involved. Frilled organza
dresses in rainbow shades had a cascade of ruffles and feathers. This was
London fashion at its best, conceptual and daring, executed with class and
a dose of wit.

Lost in sequence, could have been a theme at Michael Halpern, who’s
bedazzled collections are considered a form of escapism. Clever, too, how
Halpen has become a go to brand for something sparkly and evening. One look
that showed his artistry: a floral sequin column dress cocooned by an
oversized hooded silk housecoat.

The power of colour and silhouette

At Molly Goddard a giant yellow tulle creation showed the power of colour
and silhouette. Elsewhere, a frothy pink gown featured layers of tulle to
create an A-line shape from shoulder to the floor, with billowing sleeves
and even more tulle patched to the chest.

Emerging label 16Arlington, who’s collection debuted at London Fashion
Week, saw inspiration by German-American pop artist Richard Lidner. This
translated into sparkly dresses, trimmed at the hem, worn with matching
hats that covered the models faces. There was a dancehall vibe to these
designs, teamed with see-through knee-length tights and laced disco
platforms made for dancing. These were dresses for evenings full of glamour
and promise.

Photo credit: Molly Goddard, Preen, 16Arlington websites