MFW: Alberta Ferretti embraces youth
Alberta Ferretti is one of the grande dames of Milan Fashion Week. Known as
the queen of crochet and having the most delicate of dresses, the house of
Ferretti has been somewhat taciturn when it comes to anything hyped in
fashion.
At the beginning of this decade, when I was working for a London showroom
that represented Mrs Ferretti, I recall her delicate collections had a
niche, yet loyal and successful following. Wealthy ladies who appreciated
its hand-sewn quality but didn’t want outré fashion were, and likely are,
its core customers.
The brand’s appeal was never aimed at a younger fashionista, until now.
Ferretti’s strategy is to embrace a youthful and more fashion-led language
in its collections, and perhaps appear less elitist, knowing the younger
generation will be its future customer.
Ferretti casted an array of young it-girls
Ferretti’s SS19 show in Milan on Wednesday was evidently aimed to capture
this outlook: models of the moment Edie Campbell, Kaia Gerber, the Hadid
sisters and Kendell Jenner walked the runway, no doubt to boost the show’s
social media presence and maximise the brand’s marketing reach.
The pretty, feminine dresses were still the pillar of the collection, but
Ferretti emphasised she can do casual cool with denim, jersey, and even
utility-inspired separates. But it was the craftsmanship of the crocheted
dresses and fine quality of the silk pieces that elevate the house of
Ferretti. No denim-clad it-girl could steal that crown.
The company, which is part of the Aeffe Group, has successfully grown by
branching out its footwear and accessory categories since Aeffe’s purchase
of Pollini. The group also operates Moschino, which is reportedly
responsible for 70 percent of the company’s turnover.
Alberta Ferretti has done well to inject a new energy into her brand and to
remain relevant by embracing the Instagram generation. It is her
ultra-feminine dresses that offer the enduring appeal.
Photos: Alberta Ferretti SS19, Credit: catwalkpictures.com