Meet the masthead: Vogue’s market editor on the importance of honing a unique perspective

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16th Aug 2019

The behind-the-scenes of the fashion industry remain a sight unseen except for a lucky few.

People outside of the field will liken your office to a walk-in wardrobe, your boss to Miranda Priestly and your day-to-day to a glamorous series of shows, long lunches and gifted handbags enjoyed while outfitted in the breakout shoes of the season. 

But the everyday role of a stylist or editor involves many more moving parts – a reality Vogue‘s very own market editor, Kaila Matthews, knows all too well. Here, she dispels some common misconceptions and shares how she gained her entrée into fashion, transitioning from journalism major to market editor. 

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“I studied media and communications at the University of Wollongong, majoring in journalism,” she says. “To be honest, my parents were the driving force for this [decision],” she explains further, citing that at the time, though interested in fashion, she “didn’t really know what exactly I wanted to pursue.”

Her first experience – a chance to learn from and work intimately with a fashion editor – came as a surprise. She recalls: “I remember being at university and always reading Yen. I reached out to then fashion editor, Pip Vassett. I thought I didn’t have a shot in hell. But she replied, we had coffee and I ended up assisting her/working at Yen for a few years. I’m forever grateful for her kindness, patience and lessons in those early years.”

That opportunity developed into a more permanent position – “I worked at Yen as a fashion assistant then as market editor” – and in turn precipitated new roles outside of the magazine. “I was also assisting freelance stylists at the same time. After Yen closed, I had a meeting with Naomi Smith (who I was freelance assisting at the time) at Harper’s Bazaar and joined the team as market editor.” Next came Vogue Australia.

“I had always wanted to work for Vogue,” Matthews explains. “The role had become available and I had expressed my interest. I remember having a phone interview with [Vogue Australia’s fashion director] Christine Centenera (who is based in NY) and was so nervous. Shortly after, I had a meeting with [Vogue Australia’s editor-in-chief] Edwina McCann and was offered the role.” 

So what does the market editor do day-to-day? “The role doesn’t really have an ‘average day’ which is one of the things I like about it,” she says. “The main part of my role is knowing the market – keeping up to date on new season launches, collections, products. I then handle smaller upfront shoots and still life. This involves discussing concepts with Art and Features, organising product and teams then styling the product on shoot day.”

She continues: “On a bigger picture level, I work closely with senior editors on covers/main fashion. This is where the market knowledge comes into full effect. We will have a meeting on the brief for a shoot and it is my job to find the best of the best: over-the-knee boots, latex bodysuits, sheer opera length gloves, pearl jewellery etc. I then have to call it in from all over the world to arrive in whatever city we are shooting in on time. If I had a dollar for every time I called DHL/FedEX, Worldnet, I would be a very wealthy woman.”

Which is why, perhaps, she’s quick to add: “on a practical level, do not be afraid to chase up invoices. That money is yours, you’ve earned it.”

Then, there’s the matter of photo shoots, which are an entirely different ball game. “It can be quite intense if you’re new to it with the amount of moving parts, it’s quite frenetic energy which is not everyone’s cup of tea. As I am often prepping a number of weeks before a shoot, I love it because I get to see what I have worked so hard for coming to fruition.”

Matthews also emphasises that this passion and love of the job should be front of mind when applying for a fashion role. “The industry can be quite tough – the investment you have to put in (time, energy etc.) is insane so make sure you are choosing it for the right reasons. You have to really love it. It’s also such a changing landscape so be ahead of the curve and form a voice that is inherently yours.”

In order to do so, she emphasises the invaluable worth of internships and assistant stylist roles. “Assisting stylists for 3-4 years both in Sydney and overseas was the best education on the industry I could have received and I highly recommend it to anyone considering this avenue of work. Assisting taught me the skills necessary for the job.” And illuminated some fashion myths too, namely frequent gifting of free clothes. “Not a thing,” she says.  

The job’s upsides, though – “traveling, working on shoots, collaborating with like-minded people” – outweigh any cons. So, for any aspiring market editors-to-be, Matthews advises: “Be respectful. Work hard. Pay attention. Know your shit. Never assume. Trust yourself, always.”