In Pictures: Dior Cruise Collection 2019

The conversation about women’s empowerment has been getting more
and more prominent in recent years, and haute couture did not take long to
join it. While Chanel may be credited with the most open defense of
feminism by turning its fashion show into an actual feminist protest in
2014, picket signs included, many have raised their eyebrows as the brand’s
creative director, Karl Lagerfeld, is known for his rather controversial
remarks. Recently, he opposed the #metoo movement, saying he doesn’t
“believe a single word of it” and adding: “if you don’t want your pants
pulled about, don’t become a model”. Which is why Maria Grazia Chiuri, the
first female designer of Christian Dior, comes therefore as a more suitable
spokesperson for women’s empowerment in the fashion world. Appointed in
2016, all her collections to date have celebrated strong, independent
women. Dior’s Cruise Collection for Spring/Summer 2019, showcased this week
at a horse riding course in Chantilly, France, was no different.

Mexican escaramuzas: the latest source of strong women to
inspire a Dior collection

This time, Chiuri was inspired by the
escaramuzas, women horse riders who formed an all-female team in the 1950s
to claim the right to take part in Charreada, the Mexican rodeo equivalent
in which riders have to perform several challenging routines before a
crowd.

”I was fascinated to see pictures of these women, who wanted
to keep their femininity even though they were in the rodeo”, the designer
told AFP. “They wore makeup, bright lipstick colors… That’s precisely the
message I wanted to convey with my collection, the idea that you can be
strong without renouncing your femininity”.

The choice to showcase
the collection at the Chantilly riding course was not for nothing, as the
town is linked both to lace making and French equestrian tradition.

Dior’s 2019 Cruise collection includes traditionally feminine
elements like full tulle skirts, lace and embroidery, contrasted with more
assertive pieces like ties, thick leather belts and black rubber
boots.

In addition to the escaramuzas, Chiuri took
inspiration from the mythological image of the Amazon, another figure who
trespassed gender barriers. Some of the pieces featured in this
Spring/Summer 2019 collection featured a twist to the traditional French
print Toile de Jouy: tigers and serpents were added to the peaceful
pastoral scenes usually depicted by this type of print.

Another example of Chiuri’s combination of dantiness and sturdiness
can be seen in the pairing of jackets in Japanese cotton with pleated
skirts that resemble Dior’s iconic new look silhouette.

Pictures: courtesy of Dior, shot by Estelle Hanania; courtesy of
Dior, shot by Adrien Dirand