Burberry’s new star shows off debut collection in London
Burberry’s new star designer Riccardo Tisci
put his own twist on the venerable British company’s classic style for its
streetwear and luxury fashion show at London’s Fashion Week on Monday.
The 44-year-old Italian designer’s first Burberry show was one of
the most
anticipated events of Fashion Week, attracting around 800 guests.
Kendall Jenner was among the star models debuting for the heavyweight
fashion house, which was showing its 2019 spring/summer collection, although
the front-row was an unusually celebrity-free zone.
With a soundtrack by trip-hop group Massive Attack the catwalk show took
place in a former post office centre under renovation — a metaphor for the
change that Burberry hopes Tisci will bring to the label, following his
success at Givenchy.
“I was thinking a lot about journeys as I started putting together
my first
Burberry collection,” said Tisci, whoc was named as Burberry’s new chief
creative officer in March, replacing Christopher Bailey.
“From my personal journey back to London 20 years after I showed my
graduate collection here, to how far I have come.
“I was also inspired by how much London — the city that made me dream to
become a designer — has evolved,” he added.
“This show is a celebration of the cultures, the traditions and the codes
of this historic fashion house and of the eclecticism that makes up the
beautifully diverse United Kingdom.”
A range of evening dresses embody Burberry’s new strategy
Tisci broke with the label’s tradition by presenting a range of
evening
dresses, a wardrobe it has never catered for before.
Black, sober, long and fluid, sometimes discreetly decorated with fine
sequins, the robes embodied the refined luxury that is one of the pillars of
Burberry’s new strategy.
The show opened, 20 minutes late, with Burberry’s classic beige
trench coat
with a brown elastic belt, followed by a latex inspired dress, pleated
skirts
with long hemlines and a new take on the bumbag.
The second half of the show was more daring, with short hemlines, slip
dresses, leather straps and cowgirl gingham on display.
Across town at Kensington Gardens, Serbian designer Roksanda Ilincic
brought reggae beats to Fashion Week.
Abstract motifs, reminiscent of the 20th Century great painters
such as
Matisse, Miro and Picasso, decorated her sweaters, dresses and trousers,
cementing her reputation as a geometric visionary of the female wardrobe,
honed during her time as an architecture student in Belgrade.
These skills were on display with a long sheath dress covered with
delicate, alternate coloured rectangles, enhanced with fine black selvedges
on
the collar, and by large scarves forming the shape of the letter “X”, worn
over casual raincoats.
Her fluid and comfortable style has won a legion of celebrity
admirers,
including Emma Stone, Cate Blanchett and Kate Middleton.
The collection also explored a bold palette, which the designer described
as “bright” and “spicy”, evoking “turmeric, poppy and limoncello”.
London Fashion Week kicked off Friday with all eyes on Victoria Beckham,
who debuted at the event on the 10th anniversary of her label’s launch. It
will run until Tuesday. (AFP)
Photo: Burberry SS19, Credit: © Catwalkpictures.com
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