Highlights: July New York Fashion Week Men’s
That’s a wrap for the three-day, New York Fashion Week: Men’s which
presented 20 runway shows at this year’s two locations; Industria Studios
and Cadillac House. The designer’s spring/summer 2019 collections presented
the full spectrum of menswear today from historical inspiration and
streetwear to men’s skirts and technology.
The most notable trend, not only in New York but arguably all Fashion Weeks
organized this summer, is gender-blending. If a designer desires to feature
lace, ruffles, Tiered white tulle gowns, and opera gloves 2018 is the year
to do it.
This season was the designer’s debut at NYFW: Men’s. He presented a
collection far from the typical menswear that spectators see on the runway,
however. Titled “Avvolgimi”, Trincone’s aim was to inspire men to embody
their power from within. “I work from a place of bad experiences, because I
like to start working from within myself,” Trincone said to FashionUnited.
“It’s a challenge to get inspired by bad things and then transfer them into
beautiful things through my collection.”
Photo: courtesy of Purple PR
Designer Christopher Bevans, drew inspiration for the collection from the
label’s hometown of Portland, Oregon. While the city is on the rise as one
of the most popular destination for young professionals, it is far from a
fashion mecca. The statement Bevans wanted to make with audience members is
that lives outside of SoHo and the Upper East Side.
“We are telling this story of future nomads. It’s kind of this utopian
world through sports and craftsmanship.”
Photo: Christopher Callaway for Dyne
Chavarria went political with his next season collection. A firm
believer on fashion without borders, he was inspired by the current
immigration catastrophe affecting so many in the United States. “My
inspiration was people of color and immigrants on both the East and West
Coast,” Chavarria said to FashionUnited.
The collection also features the recognizable 1999 and 2000s styles
including baggy jeans, Timberland Boots, and baggy T-shirts. While
Chavarria stuck with mostly neutral colors and denim, the show’s
collaborator, Hummel, brought exploration into colors like yellow, orange
and red.
Photos: courtesy of Purple PR
Feng Chen Wang explored themes of human connectivity and the idea of
things in our lives that make us whole. Wang was also inspired by diagrams
mapping the increase and decrease in temperature throughout the human body
as we experience different emotions. She explored the phenomenon of loving
warming us, depression cooling us, and anger igniting our upper body
through PVC pieces that related to these different emotions.
Photos: Gerardo Somoza
Graham’s signature time-capsule of collections left the crowd curious as
to where he would take them next. The answer: 1969, as he aptly titled his
spring/summer 2019 collection. The collection featured astronaut inspired
jackets and commander pants closely resembling a Apollo 11 crew member.
Even the tailored suits in the collection were playfully named “Space
Suits”.
Inline with his past-tense show with futuristic hopes theme, the
designer closed the show with a company of children walking down the runway
in “Future Martians” T-shirts. After all, the children are the future.
Photos: Getty Images for Nick Graham
This seasons collection was meant to be a sequel to the last season
which deals with self-acceptance in sexual orientation and masculinity.
What define masculinity? Many gay men struggle to come out and express
themselves throughout their lives. However, fashion and the clothes that
they wear can be a way to express themselves without words, far before
coming out.
On themes of companionship, a sweater was featured with a Bernese
Mountain Dog printed on it. A white T-shirt had the word “Boyfriend” etched
across it. Ideas of home, love and relationships showed how we can also use
dress to attract other people. It is through fashion that many people are
able to connect.
Photo: courtesy of Purple PR
Inspired by 18th century dresses, the collection featured clothing like
dresses and ruffles that used to be considered unisex. Presented in three
chapters: The Bath, Reminiscence, and The Funeral, Nicholson pushed the
boundaries of menswear forward by looking into the past. Why should
menswear be limited to pants?
The Bath chapter showed all white pieces, almost void of any color. The
Reminiscence channeled the 1970s with vertical striped and denim shirts.
The concluding looks were all black, respectfully so with The Funeral
theme. A nearly ankle length black coat had an almost grim reaper like feel
to it. Lace still played a big part in the details here, adorning cuffs,
collars, and necklines.
photos: Rudy K/SIPA Press Paris
Main photo: Getty Images for Nick Graham