NYFW: Emerging American label to watch – Hellessy
In 2012,
French-Japanese designer Sylvie Millstein founded Hellessy, a New
York-based womenswear label with a focus on pared-back elegance that shines
through its sophisticated refined pieces for the perfect day-to-night
styling.
Millstein, who has previously worked at Givenchy and Chanel has captured
the “more is more” trend, making her ready-to-wear pieces glamorous, while
still keeping to the aesthetic that her customers want to be “dressed but
not precious” with feminine colour combinations, statement detailing and
impeccable fits.
Her approach to redefining what separates mean in a woman’s wardrobe has
made the label a firm celebrity favourite, with fans including Gwyneth
Paltrow, Priyanka Chopra, Tessa Thompson, Rihanna, Gemma Chan, Martha Hunt,
Lily James, and Kate Bosworth.
Five Minutes With… Sylvie Millstein founder of Hellessy
Ahead of her autumn/winter 2019 catwalk show as part of New York Fashion
Week and the birth of her twin boys, FashionUnited caught up with Millstein
over e-mail to understand more about the direction of her emerging American
womenswear label, plans for the future, as well as what to expect from her
newest collection.
What inspired you to launch Hellessy?
“After over a decade spent optimising merchandising and sales at Chanel
and Givenchy, I wanted to get to the creative side and apply my
merchandising expertise to design a ready-to-wear collection which speaks
to a customer looking for a new designer proposition for social and evening
dressing. At that time, I myself was searching for more relevant wardrobe
options which fit the context of my day as a working mother of two with a
busy social calendar in New York City.”
Where does the name come from?
“Hellessy was created using the first syllables of my two elder sons’
names and mine; Hendrix, Lennox, Sylvie (I have 2 more boys on the way). A
name close to my heart. My family plays a very important role in my life
and these values show through within my work so it made sense to
incorporate into the brand.”
How has your luxury merchandising background with Chanel help?
“Tremendously, knowledge of luxury fabrics, finishings and cut got me a
head start, but my understanding of what resonates with the customer, after
years analysing it at Chanel, is really what drives my creativity.
“I do not create to fulfil a fantasy or for pure creative purpose, I
always create with my customer in mind – What does she desire? What is
missing in her wardrobe? What complements the different moments of her
day?”
How do you approach your designing?
“It all starts with fabrics. I develop custom print, patterns and
colours with Italian mills and I start sketching for each fabric category.
I sketch about a hundred new ideas of silhouettes each season then edit
them down to the strongest – I like to experiment with novel silhouettes in
unexpected fabrics – a gown made in crocheted jersey, or trompe l’oeil
drape and juxtaposition of fabrics such as a silk drop top with a half
cotton oxford mens shirt tucked into it.
“Colour is key to the process, every colour shade and combination is
really dialled in to compliment the body and skin while also delivering
that Hellessy individuality.”
Who is the Hellessy woman?
“She is confident in her style and socially busy, her wardrobe has to
make sense within her lifestyle. She wants to make an entrance, but her day
requires an ease and practicality to her dressing. That balanced with a
hint of seduction, femininity and comfort. My design propositions include
separates sets that can be worn differently with an elevated jeans or a
simple basic T-shirt. She is modern and looking forward with her dressing,
not backwards.”
What can we expect from the upcoming autumn/winter 2019 collection set
to show at New York Fashion Week?
“Unexpected but ultra luxe fabrics in fluid yet sculptural silhouettes.
There is always an element of surprise or a peculiar detail to my designs,
but this season it is also applied to my choice of model, music and venue.
The mood and weights keep in mind the delivery period which is very
transitional in terms of how our customer is shopping between the months of
July – November.”
How do you prepare for fashion week?
“Lots of short but sweet family times helps balance the madness of show
prep. My family inspires me and provides the release to be clear and more
creative.”
Any plans for retail openings? UK expansion to add to Selfridges?
“We are still very much in a formative stage of development and are
still considered a niche discovery which I find very special at this time.
The focus is really on sustaining and further developing within our current
wholesale accounts, many of which have been added within the last three
years.
“These partnerships have been very supportive and given us amazing
insight and access to our woman. She is coming back season to season to
complete her wardrobe with signature Hellessy pieces and creating an
overall demand for the brand in her region. Through her life web and social
media, the brand has been exposed to new regions and established an inquiry
in which we can build on. Asia/Australia, Middle East, Eastern Europe and
also new countries in Europe like Germany and Italy are looking like
natural next steps of distribution.
“In terms of future retail, this would first be explored through a
specialised shop fit within the right retail partner space; a more precious
experience.”
What are Hellessy’s immediate goals for 2019?
“Evolve the collection in a way which motivates our current women and
also inspire new customers to take the leap into our world. Specifically
Resort 2020, we will expand into a larger knitwear offering to mirror the
strong identity and success of our blouses.
“Oh and transition with the expansion of my family with the arrival of
my twin boys three days after my show.
Hellessy has become a global womenswear label with stockists in America,
Canada, the UK, Europe, Asia, and Australia, with key retail partners
including Net-A-Porter, Neiman Marcus, Lane Crawford, Harvey Nichols Dubai,
and Selfridges.
Images: courtesy of Hellessy