Boys can be girls: what we learned from Paris fashion week

As Paris men’s fashion week comes to an end
Sunday we look at four things we learned from a packed and at times
emotional
six days:

Men don’t have to be men

The pressure is off, boys. Dress like you did when you were a kid
raiding
your mother’s wardrobe. That seems to be the big message from a fashion
week
where the gender lines have never been more blurred.

We have had men in dresses aplenty before on the Paris catwalk but
never
has the male wardrobe itself been so comprehensively feminised. Blur’s
“Girls
& Boys” could have been the soundtrack for a week where genderless meant
men
borrowing all the best bits from the girls to sex up suits, shirts and
trousers.

Margiela’s John Galliano said the time had come to “liberate” men
from
their sartorial shackles. For him that meant silks and satins, daring to be
“louche” by going shirtless under a suit, and most of all wearing clothes
cut
on the bias — the technique he has used for years to make his clothes for
women so fluid and sensual.

“Gender doesn’t matter any more — it’s 2018,” Kim Jones told AFP
before
his triumphant debut at Dior Homme where he showed a transparent organza
and
tulle shirt embroidered with tiny, delicate white feathers.

Flowers and floral toile de Jouy blossomed out of a long run of other
pieces, “but it is still menswear,” he insisted.

Loewe used not a little humour to herald fashion’s rebirthing of man,
opening its presentation with a naked young man sitting on a chair sauvely
fingering his trumpet.

Pink power

Naturally in such circumstances, pink — once the “boy’s colour”
before it
was supplanted by butch blue in the 1940s — was in full blush. From Dior’s
pale pink double breasted suits and trench coats to Thom Browne’s Vichy
check
and bubblegum pink lobstar coats and the old rose of timeless Hermes, the
colour threw its puff powder hue everywhere.

Vuitton’s Jones said it was time to bury the old wussy prejudices.
“In LA
kids in the street wear pink all the time. So it’s not, ‘Oh it’s pink, I
won’t
wear it’, anymore,” he added.

Fellow Briton Paul Smith agreed, sending out borderline violet DB
jackets
Sunday, while Lanvin also flirted with floral and silky pinks.

Purist, restrained Valentino even used it for its logo while Raf
Simons
celebrated its gender-bending New Romantic glamour in fuschia satin coats
and
scarves.

Even rappers can cry

“Witnessed black history” Rihanna told her 63.5 million Instagram
followers
after watching Virgil Abloh make his debut at Louis Vuitton on Thursday, a
black man at last at the head of the world’s biggest luxury brand. “Proud
of
you bro,” she added under a picture of the pair hugging.

But she could equally have been talking about the long, lingering
embrace
and the tears Abloh and his friend and mentor Kanye West shed after his
show
in the Palais Royal.

More than the clothes, their celebrity psychodrama defined fashion
week on
social media.

The rapper had always wanted to design for a big Paris fashion house
but it
was Abloh his protege who got there first. Cue wounded pride and a long
hurt
silence from the Ye. The sight of them moving on so dramatically — and so
publicly — had many a lip trembling. It also brought West’s wife Kim
Kardashian back to Paris, reportedly from the first time since she was tied
up
and robbed in 2016.

Street becomes boulevard

The star power of Paris shows used to be judged by the number of
Hollywood
stars on the front row. With streetwear now a fixture of almost every
collection, it’s rappers that labels are now vying to court.

Apart from Kanye West — who has his own Yeezy line of clothes and
Adidis
trainers — Kid Cudi, Playboi Carti and Steve Lacy were spotted rubbing
shoulders at shows. ASAP Rocky appeared to be ever present, checking out
and
modelling Dior, Vuitton, Raf Simons and Rick Owens, whose whole show turned
on
another rapper, Tommy Cash.

Its soundtrack was an instrumental version of the wacky post-Soviet
Estonian star’s hit “Pussy Money Weed”, and Cash walked the runaway as a
model
in one of Owens’ key looks.(AFP)

photo 1: SS19 Dior Homme & SS19 Louis Vuitton, Catwalkpictures

Photo 2: SS19 Maison Margiela, Catwalkpictures

Photo 3 & 4: SS19 Dior Homme, Catwalkpictures

Photo 5: SS19 Thom Brown, Catwalkpictures

Photo 6: SS19 Paul Smith, Catwalkpictures

photo 7 & 8: SS19 Louis Vuitton, Catwalkpictures