Sportswear absent from SS19 catwalks
London – If there is one stand-out trend from the global spring summer 2019 catwalk
season it would be the return of tailoring and dressing up. After nearly
half a decade of sportswear dominated runways, the luxury houses are
emphasising femininity and tailoring as streetwear begins to take a back
seat.
Hedi Slimane at Celine, however controversial his first collection, didn’t
show a single sneaker on the catwalk, despite sneakers being a commercial
necessity for most designer brands, including parent company LVMH.
Photo: Valentino SS19, Catwalkpictures.com
Where once the classic suit was on the endangered species list, SS19 is a
season full of suiting solutions, and modern tailoring lies at its heart.
At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquiere opted for sharpness, like a razor-cut
zip-up blazer with a drop shoulder and oversized lapel. Matching trousers
were straight and cropped, featuring a loop finishing in the side seam. At
Louis Vuitton, too, sportswear was largely absent.
Photo: Rick Owens SS19, Catwalkpictures.com
Even at Balenciaga, where designer Demna Gvasalia started a near hoodie
revolution, hoodies were nowhere to be seen. A series of robes-manteaux
opened the show, followed by dresses in many guises: strappy,
one-shouldered, bodycon and high-collared. Even the giant logo was reduced
to a discreet placement on a side seam, less graphic and prominent, just
visible enough to not eschew the Maison’s label-loving customer.
The sporty cross body bag, a key trend last season, has become functional
and elegant, with details borrowed from more casual styles. But even as
designers are favouring more classic shapes, it is never at the expense of
fashion. Buckles and hardware keep accessories luxe and ready for business.
Photo: Balenciaga SS19, Catwalkpictures.com
One of my favourite trends of the season is minimalism. There was a real
focus on elevated basics; the perfect jacket, a timeless dress. Where the
styles were more sporty, they were less athletic and focused on quality,
like at Jil Sander where design duo Luke and Lucie Meier showed the perfect
work shirt and smocks, sporty for sure, but in monochrome versions it was
utilitarian and chic.
The end of sneaker mania?
Comfort is a trend that is here to stay. Even at Valentino, arguable the
best show of Paris fashion week, flat comfy shoes proved versatile
necessities, like feather covered sandals and low key espadrilles were worn
with lace embroidered evening wear and those sumptuous billowing dresses
that opened the show. Sneakers will no doubt be a strong selling item for
many luxury brands – Valentino’s Rock Stud version are one of its best
selling categories – but across the major fashion shows designers largely
avoided featuring them on the catwalks.
Photo: Balenciaga SS19, Catwalkpictures.com
There is a new wearability found in functional fashion, but it has elevated
sportswear to something altogether more elegant. Bring on SS19.
Main photos: Valentino SS19, catwalkpictures.com