Joseph Abboud’s new take on menswear

While many designers were going the more minimalist route this season,
Joseph Abboud, a master of American menswear, decided to go the completely
opposite route and hop on the maximalist train. Abboud’s signature style
includes strong tailoring, neutral colors, and his colorful scarves,
because we all need a pop of color, but this season there was a twist on
his usual sartorial aesthetic.

“I went completely opposite of understated because I love sumptuous fabrics
that surround your body, and this collection is a celebration of Ellis
Island and those who came here to America with their families,” Abboud said
to FashionUnited. “I’ve always been an inclusionary band, and I wanted that
feel of richness and coming to America.”

To fit his Ellis Island theme, Abboud held is show at Pier 16 in New York
City with a boat as the venue so when the models walked down the plank it
would have that same spirit of the Ellis Island immigrants who arrived in
America. The end goal of fashion is typically to sell clothes, but rather
than think of this collection’s capability at a retail perspective, Abboud
focused on this collection sending a message.

Joseph Abboud inspired by Ellis Island immigrants for NYFW: Men’s
collection

While many menswear designers, especially those who have had a longstanding
core customer, have been afraid to take things to a maximalist level,
Abboud has more faith in men’s growing tastes for the adventurous. “Guys
understand layering, younger guys are learning about the history of
menswear and that’s an important factor in texture and richness, and
they’ll see that on runway,” Abboud said to FashionUnited. “It’s an artisan
approach because each piece was custom made for the presentation, and it
took months for us to put this together.”

The fall 2019 recalled the clothes that the immigrants to Ellis Island wore
when they first arrived here in America. Details featured included washed
fabrics, raw edges, and surprising combinations of texture and pattern
reflecting homespun wares from around the world. Mismatched buttons,
sheared shoulders, and patches crafted from remnants of antique Kilim rugs
were an homage to how these immigrants would mend what were often handed
down.

Fabrics featured included washed tweeds, vintage velvets, and time worn
flannels inspired by a workman-like tone. Trousers were full to allow for
movement, capes wrapped around the body like blankets, and layering, a
brand signature, was unstudied and eclectic.

The utilitarian theme carries over to the accessories. Leather bags and
duffels were made with functionality in mind, and distressed fedoras and
caps were designed in collaboration with milliner Albertus Swaenpoel.

It wasn’t just a collection of luxury menswear, but a message that Abboud
also produced. Fashion must at once be both an innovator and incubator of
inclusivity, two things evidenced by this collection.

photos: courtesy of Purple PR