Liberate men with satin and corsets: fashion icon Galliano

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John Galliano set out Friday to redefine
21st-century masculinity with corsets, sensual satins and vinyl trousers to
“liberate” men from their sartorial shackles.

The British designer’s new collection for Maison Margiela at Paris
men’s
fashion week not only blurred the lines between genders, but blew them away
with shiny pink ribbon belts and a haute couture decadence that rarely
treads
the male catwalk.

Inspired by genderless fashion boutiques now springing up in London
and
elsewhere, Galliano put out a podcast to explain how he is plotting to
release
men from the straitjackets of suits and streetwear.

“I have been questioning myself, and I’ve been trying to redefine
what it
means to be masculine today,” he said.
The designer urged men to learn from women how to feel both classy and
comfortable.

The creator, who revolutionised Dior and Givenchy before his fall from
grace after a drunken anti-Semitic outburst in 2011, said fine tailoring cut
on the bias could be the key to revolutionising men’s wardrobes with a new
sexier, freer feel.

‘Easy as wearing no clothes’

“It’s mercurial, like liquid to wear,” Galliano said. “It’s as easy as
wearing no clothes. It’s that liberating.”
He said he was struck by its effect when he was doing the fitting with
his
models.

“All my girlfriends have experienced it, but to the young dudes I’m
doing
the fittings on it’s a revelation. It’s just so light. The feeling of a
waistband or tailoring cutting into you is gone.”

Galliano, 57, who has been at the head of the label created by the
highly
influential Belgian maverick Martin Margiela since 2014, said sartorial
rules
may be about to be overturned like social taboos.

He said he is surrounded by young people in his studio and “for them
gay
marriage is a historical event, the abolition of the ban on abortion in
Ireland is history. It’s a completely different mindset,” he told the
podcast,
“The Memory of… With John Galliano”.

With languid satin suits cut loose and worn with nothing underneath
and
embroidered kimono jumpsuits, Galliano mixed gender-bending David Bowie
looks
from the 1970s with a more futuristic Japanese vibe.

The designer said people’s body language changes with clothes cut on
the
bias. “You feel really relaxed in it… it’s very fluid but still smart.
Still
chic. You don’t feel waistbands and you don’t feel canvas or a stiffness.
It’s
just like wearing a T-shirt. That’s the feeling,” he later told Women’s Wear
Daily.(AFP)

Photots: SS19 Maison Margiela, Catwalkpictures